It really was the perfect way to start a weekend that was following a kick in the pants type week. I was all set up to go to Marena’s and do a restaurant review of a place that had not only intrigued me, but had also been highly recommended by my father. I called and made the earliest possible reservation for a Friday night, knowing good and well the place would be packed by the time I finished my meal (which it was) and relegating my bevy of note taking devices (notepad and voice recorder to name a few) with me back to the car before I looked like the homeless version of Michael Donahue (without the legendary hair). As I walked in the beautifully decorated interior I was met by the two most important people of the night- Chef/ Owner Morteza Gerani who would be preparing my meal and server extraordinaire Alice Reed who, well, we’ll get to that in a second. Like I said, the décor was perfect for someone who had a hectic week. I sat down next to the window in the front room and took a huge sigh of relief as a glass of Nero D’Avola was brought to my table. Things were looking up mightily already.
Enter Alice Reed.
At first, she looked at me like that homeless man I may have been portraying, but as she kind of looked over the expanse of writing materials, she caught on quick. She would become my designated diner for the evening. Everything I ordered was on her recommendation seeing as she, you know, works there and this had been my introduction to a place that many consider their regular restaurant.
Alice began to explain to me exactly what Marena’s was about, handed me a menu and started going over the choices and the specials. Of course, I was there for the fixed price menu ($25/ weekdays, $28 weekends) that consisted of a salad, an appetizer or a soup and an entrée. I had heard that this course of action was the best way to go and it offered me something that is normally and inexplicably not readily available in this city. So, after we dispatched with the specials, Alice and I put our heads together and came up with a game plan. It included a Caesar Salad, a Lump Crab and Shrimp Cake and something called Phesen Joon, which Alice assured me was beyond excellent.
She was indeed correct, as the meal was superb. I am admittedly a Caesar fanatic and I was hoping that this one could touch some of the finer in the city and it not only did that but also exceeded most. While some will wonder how hard it really is to screw up a salad, it would shock you when I tell you that, apparently, it’s quite easy. Not at Marena’s, though- no hairy fish taste (otherwise known as anchovies), no lack of dressing and no lack of taste. On the other hand, the croutons were off the charts good. On to another glass of Nero.
The wine list at Marena’s is nothing to leave you perplexed, as it’s both well done and pretty functional. You’re not going to dine there and have War & Peace sitting on your table as you go through 150 different wines that make as much sense to the normal diner as hieroglyphics. It’s straight forward and without overkill. Seeing as the Nero is one of my favorite wines, I was already content.
The Crab and Shrimp Cake arrived and although it was only one cake, this was not your typical cake. Marena’s is what I would call Adriatic fare (the Sea that has Italy on its’ West banks and the Greek Peninsula on its’ Eastern shores) meaning it infuses all of the cooking from that particular region with a touch of Hungarian food (which is by far my favorite food outside of Italy). The Cakes were decidedly from this region as they were both fatter than your typical American Crab Cake as well as having that Hungarian stuffing/ breadcrumb texture to them (sort of reminiscent of hush puppies but with more consistency and thickness). They were perfectly fried and reminded me of my Great Grandmother’s cooking (nothing like tugging at the old heart-strings). The Shrimp were whole and the Lump Crab was everywhere. Unfortunately for whoever made the sauce, it became barely an accompaniment on my plate.
After the restaurant started to fill up and people kept looking at me in that strange, “why does he have papers and a notebook” kind of fashion (something you get very used to when writing about restaurants), dinner arrived. The Phesen Joon was not a dish I was familiar with, but again, I was taking the word of the woman who got me there. Alice stated flatly that it was the best dish on the menu, available in Chicken or Veal. I opted for the Veal and off we went. She was spot on. It was truly fantastic and a recipe that I will someday try and master at my own house. It infused the tastes of sweet, salty, citrus and nutty into one delectable dish. The Veal was excellent in both the cut and in the temperature that it was prepared while still being complimented by the sauce that brought pomegranate, walnuts, vegetables and basmati rice into one taste. I don’t know if I’m doing the dish justice, but trust me, it was that good.
The menu itself was something to be desired, at least for a lover of Italian, Greek and Eastern European fare. There are dishes that are exclusive to each region and others that meld all three into one dish. Another aspect of Marena’s was the fairly extensive list of menu items that are Vegetarian friendly. For some, that is of no care. For others, it is of the utmost concern and Marena’s certainly does a great job catering to those of the non-meat eating ilk. The restaurant really reminded me of one of my favorite haunts on the Upper East Side of New York City, a little family owner Italian/ Mediterranean joint on the corner of 80th and 2nd Ave. Not to mention, the way the restaurant is set up lends itself to the New York City feel. I felt more at home in Marena’s than I do in any restaurant in the city not named Ronnie Grisanti’s.
On to dessert and back to Alice Reed for my choice. Apparently, the chef did not consult me before making his dessert list and that left the ensuing choice to Alice who had to choose from my two favorite desserts, Tiramisu and Poached Pear. She decided to bring me out both. They were off the charts, although I was now physically stapled to my chair. There would be no getting up for a few minutes and the look I had on my face made the incoming patrons quit looking at my papers and began to look at my face which probably resembled something between me gasping for air and me bench pressing a Volvo. Of course, when Poached Pear and Tiramisu are brought to your table, what recourse do you really have?
On to the menu itself, it’s loaded with dishes like Fettuccine Alfredo, a nightly Seafood Special, the Veal brothers (Piccata and Marsala), raviolis, lamb, filets with brandy and demi glaze, eggplant and beef tenderloin. The appetizer menu has a Caprese, Quail, Polenta with Portabellas and a bruschetta. Besides the aforementioned two desserts, the dessert menu also has traditional Italian desserts like crème brulee, Sorbets and the like.
Overall, I could not have been more pleased with the way Marena’s was put together. The servers were great, the food was drive-an-hour good, the ambiance was perfect and the feel of the place was just so homely while also being very European. It was the perfect environment for a family dinner, a place for friends to congregate and it might be the best place in the city I’ve been to for a date.
The Particulars:
~Reservations are very much recommended (especially on the weekends)
~Only serves wine
~Apps: $5-$9
~Entrees: $12-$22 (without specials)
~No Bar
~No Smoking
~1545 Overton Park Ave.
~ 901.278.9774
~ Closed on Mondays
